eleni sent me

Yesterday as I strolled the Caldera with my children taking numerous shots of the exquisite sunset I was shocked to hear that an hour earlier about 20 minutes away from our hotel in the village of Vourvoulos that a man had been wandering around with his young wife’s head in his hand and a knife in the other… The local news station at Volcano TV today confirmed events at a newspress conference.  Other TV channels, Mega and Antenna have also dropped in to get the scoop as the crime scene is being processed today.  Two young women, Doctors from the Thira hospital lie in critical condition in Athens after being hit by the man trying to escape in a stolen police car.  The man was shot several times and he continued to fight, slashing an officer in the mouth before being shot again.  The Police chief stated that police here in Santorini don’t carry ammunition and the police who went to the crime scene only had 4 bullets each.  The news here takes an event and dissects it until no stone has been left unturned.  People who live in Santorini are very shaken up, these kind of events do not occur in this laidback idyllic island.  Apparently this man from Alexandroupolis, worked as a cook in Imerovigli and had no prior history or record of violence.  It was a fight that escalated and until further details are discovered, it is an event that brings great sadness and reality into perspective.  Violent events occur all over the world and for senseless reasons.

Walking down the winding steps, swerving to avoid “Donkey Dumplings” phrased by 12 year old wisdom  I can see the Caldera unfolding in front of me.  Although the smell is enough to put you off…all the breathing training from my Bikram’s Yoga is coming in handy.  I can hold my breath for a very long time…enough to bound by the heftiest whiffs until I see the clearing.  None of this is phasing my 12 year old, maybe that is why he is already halfway down the 589 steps.   We could have taken the Teleferik cable car but since the focus is on being active we opt for the fitness benefit.  Today is Ari’s 12th Birthday and we are going fishing when we reach the bottom in the old port called Yialos. 

The owners of the Sirtaki Taverna have been very generous to us.  They provide Ari with fishing tackle, bait and encouragement.  The Sirtaki Taverna is one of my favorite little places to eat.  This year it has changed owners and the new owner is delightful.  The display is full with a variety of fresh fish, Octopus, and live lobster.  We flag down Ari and sit down to a freshly grilled snapper sizzling with a sprinkle of lemon juice and stream of olive oil.  A hearty Greek salad and giant Calamari complete the meal.  Everyone is satisfied and we linger at the table mulling over the delicateness of our fish and the freshness of the Calamari. It is worth the walk down for lunch or the cable car ride down or up if you choose to have dinner there in the evening. 

July 5th 2008

Finally!  after a very long trip with a stop in Amsterdam….Thank goodness for those quick trains into Amsterdam and great weather for a trip to the Madam Tussaude wax museum.  Travelling with 2 teens and a pre teen, this stop was a Godsend.  We all had fun posing with our favorite stars, muscians,  and historical figures.  The Johnny Depp picture at the entrance at 8 euros….hmm a bit pricey but the memory priceless.  Winding down the quaint streets we had a quick whirlwind view of Amsterdam’s unique character and then quickly were whisked back to the airport.  Arriving at 4:00 am with a breakdown in our hotel plans.  Always, Always re confirm if your flight is going to be delayed. Otherwise it becomes quite costly. 

Our generous taxi driver found us a hotel in the outskirts of Athens called the Centro (which means center) Hotel. It was tastefully decorated and they provided us with a suite fit for a family, spacious two tvs …not that we were watched anything at 5:00 am.  and a very large bathroom with a pressurized shower head…does that make sense?  well it was a welcome surprise because most hotels have poor water pressure on their showerheads.  After a knocked out sleep we all awoke at  noon shocked that the day had already passed us by.  Back to our original hotel, the Attalos which is smack in the center of Monastiraki within walking distance to the metro station.  We quickly got our hotel arrangements sorted out.  The staff here are family based and we have been staying at this hotel while in Athens for the past 4 years.  It is old world renovated comfy rooms with view of the Acropolis which lit at night is a great perk.  Breakfast is included and it is buffet style so everyone in the family can  sort themselves out from cereal choices, traditional, meat eaters and of course for the vegetarian in our family ( my daughter) a peaceful breakfast atmosphere is ensured. 

Today’s Agenda?  The Ancient Agora and the Acropolis.   We have been several times, however everytime is an experience.  There is an awe that you can not escape as you walk along the pathways lined with weary vegetation intertwined with the freshness of new plants just bursting onto the scene excited to greet you on the way up to the first temple in the Ancient Agora.  Now not everyone is on the same page when travelling with teens but you have to go with the flow and be creative….First of all arguing in the rising heat is exhausting and compromising can be hazardous to your health if it is not reached promptly. However, we all agree after a water break that the two who do not want to hike up can wait at the base.   An absolute must is to supply the older teen with a phone so that you can have communication available.  At Germanos which is a major electronics store you can purchase a What’s Up?  phone…basic model for 29 euros or a more trendy one at 49 euros.  These are the cheapest, they operate with a phone card …Cosmote in my opinion has faithfully worked for my phone, you can limit their time since the cards are available in 9, 15, 20 or 30 euros.  Incoming calls are free and you just have the sales reps at the store load them up for you.  When you arrive at the Airport there is a Germanos  to the right of Arrivals so unless you have a late flight, pop in and your done.

Well off to breakfast and let the walking begin!

A cool Spring evening breeze introduces the small cycladic island of Paros to me as I step off the Blue Star Ferry  platform onto the main square in Paroikia.  I scan the small crowd for my friends Louann and John.  I am here to meet them and see Louann’s dream…her very own hotel!  This is what happens when you come to Greece…You fall in love with her passion, adventure, and limitless possibilities.   I recommended Greece to Louann 3 years ago and she returned with an inspired  desire to design her life…specifically to include Greece as her destination and owning her own hotel.  Many trips later and one in which I accompanied her to translate and search for her dream, Louann has found her place.  It is no small feat being a Canadian and starting your own business with no language experience, just the passion and love for a country.

Stay tuned for the update this summer on the blossoming of this venture.

When God was creating our world he must have been thinking about a place where humans could escape to and reconnect to the wonder of surprise, joy and inspiration.  I have just returned from Greece and the island of Symi just around the corner from Rhodes continues to permeate and entrench my senses with its pristine beauty and mystical hold. 

  It is an island that I discovered many tourists return to loyally once they have experienced it and even leave their lives to come and live on it. It is difficult to capture it fully and my words seem inadequate to describe it’s serenity and soul.  For this island does have a soul and the moment you step off the catamaran or boat, it beckons to you to be still and time stops. 

Every day unfolds a tapestry of delights as you start to explore it’s secrets.  Craggy mountains transform into masterpieces as they are lit by the early  morning and late evening sun creating  living sculptures that hypnotize you with their intricate crevices.  The ocean is a myriad of sparkling shades of azure, turquoise, cobalt and royal blue lapping against rocky shores, hidden coves and breathtaking beaches.  As I boarded the Poseidon, a traditional wooden boat for a cruise around the island, our Captain, AKA “Captain Gorgeous” (a paratsoukli…nickname) bestowed upon him by his loyal passengers who return religiously every year to take his cruises assured me that this trip would be unforgettable. 

 This man delivers what he promises!  Our boat stopped at various places around the island and although I am not a strong swimmer, I was compelled to jump into the waters every single stop! We stopped for a swim into a cave, an island for a barbeque that only the pictures can speak for themselves,  a beautiful famous monastery at Panormitis which is dedicated to the Archangel Michael, another swim and coffee at the majestic beach of Agios Georgios to return completely fulfilled.  The people of Symi embrace visitors and I had the honor of meeting them, and spending time with them. 

 I felt uncomfortable the first day I arrived in Symi. I had a vision of where I wanted to stay and although I was excited and intrigued by the beauty and energy of this island I was also frustrated that my room did not reflect the image of the place I had created in my mind.  It was the best thing that happened to me.  After a short walk in Yialo, I met Takis the Leather Fashion Designer who invited me to sit down and have a coffee after I deluged him with my complaints. It turns out that he is a professonal listener as well as a talented designer.  Takis was my first face of Symi… and through our conversation, I could hear all my complaints being acknowledged and respected.  When I got back to my nondescript tourist “special” room, I had a different appreciation for it. 

The next day, I saw that all I had to do on Symi was to enjoy it and drink it in like a glass of expensive wine, savoring every precious drop… I hopped onto the local bus …only one euro!  Things were looking up!  The bus wound up lazily to the Chorio and the first stop was Pedi Bay.  Since I saw most of the people get off, I thought…why not?  It is the “why not” that Symi reminds you to do and forces you to choose without wondering how, when, where, and inside of this uncertainty…you become certain and life unfolds before you in an astonishing way….like having lunch at a pretty little traditional taverna with home cooked food lovingly prepared for you, meeting Kiria Ourania, your gracious hostess at the Pedi Bay Studios…which miraculously match your vision of a little sundrenched studio with blue french doors opening out into a view of the bay guarded by a circle of towering mountains, sipping a delectable drink at the Kali Strata while gazing at the vastness of Yialo under a blanket of stars, driving through winding roads and sparse forests listening to the silence of your stillness as you approach isolated little churches, and even drinking a frappe by a little cafe overlooking the harbour transforms your existence propelling you into a world without stress, no where to rush off to, nothing to do but enjoy the embrace of Symi’s mystical moments. 

All you need to do  to see and experience is to look…but a word of caution, once you look into Symi’s blue eyes, you cannot turn back…you are destined to return and they will draw you back. 

It sounds like Clark Kent’s Greek Metropolis…some kind of ancient hidden secret city…but this is the home of the only traditional little doughnut balls called “Loukoumades” exclusively made in Santorini. They have a variety of Loukoumades, all homemade featured with different syrups and nuts. Traditional ones are soaked in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon. My oldest son Thano was my taste taster as he is the one who loves them the most. He chose the chocolate ones, which came drizzled with Chocolate syrup and filled with hazelnut chocolate ( like Nutella) and a generous scoops of pure Vanilla ice cream. They were fried to perfection, visions of luscious, fluffy, mind numbing confections. They need to be eaten hot and you will need lots of cold water to help you not lose consciousness from the sweet infiltration and assault of deliciousness on your tastebuds. This is a gem of a cafe and it is quaint with it’s barrel tables and mounds of papermache loukoumades….about 2750 of them, all hand glued together by the owner. The service is excellent and you feel welcome the moment you order until the last drops of honey on your Loukomoudes are lapped up. Take a look at the travel pics section to view this favourite little place.

Dana Villas is one of many hotels dotting the volcanic cliffs, cascading down a multitude of steps that invoke aerobic inspiration to your body.  Once down though, the trek down reaps upon you it’s rewards.  Breathtaking views on self contained patios sprinkled with mediteranean flora and picturesque entrances to your rooms.  Inside, the rooms reflect the traditional architecture and are tastefully decorated with the palettes of the Aegean.  Extraordinary service is quoted by many at this hotel, and I first handed have experienced it while staying here last Spring.  The Hotel Manager Mr. Dimitri Tzimos, is experienced with training in management that is evident from the first time he greets you.   In the foyer, the guest book teems with praise and acknowledgement for countless experiences having been had in this hotel.  It is a favorite for Weddings  and Dimitri oversees every detail, leaving no stone unturned to ensure that the couple’s wedding day is all that they imagined it to be.

Hotel staff are courteous, hospitable and excell at their work, whether it is the porter managing your luggage, or housekeeping preparing your room.   All the staff are continually trained in customer service by Dimitri and he constantly looks to improve the service of the hotel to guests while ensuring that his staff also are treated with respect in their positions.  (Not an easy feat when the staff is multilingual, however this hotel serves as an example of promoting integrity among the very people who serve you which in turn translates into impeccable service)  Check travel pics for my recent photos of this hotel, and there is a link for the hotel’s own photos as well with higher resolution.

Dana Villas is open year round and it is adviseable to book early in the year as it is always fully booked in the summer months.  Spring time, is a beautiful peaceful time to stay at this hotel.  This hotel provides Luxury, relaxing accomodations for couples, groups, business retreats.  It is exclusive and it does not allow children under 16 years of age.    It has a private pool, Jacuzzi and the most spectacular views of Santorini’s volcanic caldera.  If you are seeking peaceful, tranquil beauty, and seclusion, this hotel will deliver.

It’s been almost 2 weeks since we first arrived in Santorini and despite getting sick, adjusting to the climate change–I heard it’s been raining in Vancouver….since we left! My children and I are relaxing and enjoying our time on Santorini. We are staying at the Hotel Margarita, which is a family run hotel where the owner Mr. Kafieris and his family exude Greek hospitality. Transfers to and from the hotel are a welcome convenience, especially since we had a 6:00 am arrival time at the airport!

These as well as a simple breakfast included in our rate make staying here on the island a relaxing time. Travelling with 2 teens and an 11 year old can be taxing, and they all chose to stay on Santorini rather than travelling to different places. We stayed here last year, and the warmth and ease of our vacation had us return. Santorini is typically not a favoured place for families, but we are proof that you can enjoy your stay on this island and find many things to do. This hotel has a variety of rooms that overlook the Aegean with a view and when booking, you have to expressly ask for the rooms with a view. I recommend contacting Mr. Kafieris directly, as well as any hotel since if you book off the internet, the rates are inflated to reflect the commission the advertising agency gets..even if they advertise huge savings.

Our room is off the pool with a private patio and entrance. I like the fact that it is tucked away from the main building because it is like our own studio, inside it has beds for four, a small fridge, large bathroom, and a TV. , and of course air conditioning! Mr. Kafieris is concerned because he wants us to have more space, however I assured him that it was perfect! Back home our schedules are jam packed with school, extracurricular activities and having a small space has us all connect to each other with a higher degree of respect, organization, and communication.

The kids spend a lot of time by the pool with their friends, or in the main breakfast room in the evening hanging out. Everyday they get to choose how the day will unfold and which beaches we will go to or excursions we will embark on. Having their input creates ease for me and has everyone enjoy thier holiday time. Look for our family excursions in Thoughts for more info.

Mr. Kafieris also has hotel apartments called Kafieris on the cliffs which have apartments that have a view of the Volcanic Caldera and Santorini’s landcape. We stayed there last year and they include little kitcheonettes and although there is no pool, Guests are welcome to use the Hotel Margarita pool, and in the evening at the top of these apartments there is a huge patio with a spa tub on the top floor for all guests to use. So you can enjoy the sunset at your leisure or even more amazing the moonlight of a full moon spilling onto the caldera.

There is something for everyone here whether you are a family, a couple, or even on your own, and you will get the most value for your holiday if that is the experience you are seeking…relaxation, ease, and comfort.

Having stayed here last Spring on my own and with my friend Louann, as well as with my family, I was able to see and experience what happens behind the scenes as the hotels prepare for the Summer. I found that integrity is compromised due to the highly competitive nature of the Tourist Season. However, I only want to share about those places that have integrity so you won’t find any negative reviews on this site. I wanted my site to reflect and comment on places that provide excellent customer service, and above all a human experience where you are left feeling appreciated not just seen as source of income, waiting to be dredged to the last drop.

Woke up today with the grogginess of yesterday’s early morning flight… 5:55 am….However, Aegean Airlines is worth the hassle of getting to the airport so early.  They exemplify customer service and anticipate their passenger’s thoughts, such as calling out to see if there were any passengers waiting to board for Santorini…with 5 mins. to spare!   I was impressed as my 2 teens, youngest and I were whisked to the front, processed in two minutes flat, baggage and all with a smile and happy holiday wishes.

Back to this morning…Ari my youngest…almost 11, an explorer like me!  got up early to walk the stone path behind the town,  that showcases the volcanic Caldera uprisings.  Early morning mist wafted amongst the ochre ruins creating a mystical sense.  Everytime I walk this pathway it never is the same.  You are engulfed in the cooler warmth of the morning and the walk becomes a visual collage that overwhelms your senses as the scurrying of people tap along,  natural and manmade sounds create a peaceful harmony that sidle alongside your journey to the center of Fira.   It gives you the opportunity to be so present that you can reflect on nothing but the beauty that surrounds you.   My first recommendation to anyone travelling to Santorini….get up early in the morning…greet the calmness of this time and give gratitude to everything you have right now.

Eleni Sent Me travels the world in search of the best vacation secrets and insider travel tips. See something you like? When you arrive just tell them: “Eleni Sent Me!”